Sideways intoxicates viewers

Director Alexander Payne's fourth effort, Sideways, is a two-hour profession of love to wine.

As the film illustrates, wine-lovers principally fall into two categories. There are the bona fide oenophiles like the main character Miles (Paul Giamatti of American Splendor), who rejoices in the nose, legs, bouquet and palette of wine, and then there are those who drink wine purely for its inebriating effects like the rakish Jack (Thomas Haden Church).

No matter which group you may fall into, chances are when you view Sideways you’ll find yourself falling in love with the elegant sophistication of wine, as you simultaneously fall in love with the film.

Shot in the beautiful Santa Ynez wine region of southern California, Sideways follows failed-writer Miles and has-been actor Jack on a wine-tasting journey through the countryside the week before Jack’s wedding. Even in the midst of his shameless philandering, Church’s Jack is still likable. Miles, however, is a quirky, alcoholic loser, capable of uttering pretentious assessments of wine like “quaffable but not transcendent.” Along the way they meet two women, Maya (Virginia Madsen of The Haunting) and Stephanie (Sandra Oh of Arliss), who both share Miles’ love of wine and are easily seduced by Jack’s persuasive charm. Predictably, the foursome splits off into twosomes, and this is when the most thoughtful discourse in the film occurs.

As Miles lauds the vulnerability of the Pinot grape, admiring its fragility and aversion to climate changes, Maya extols the life of wine. She beseeches the drinker to imagine not only the evolution of the taste but also the life of the grape and the lives of the workers who picked the grapes. As their interaction continues, Miles falls in love with Maya for her appreciation of wine, and the viewer becomes enamored with a movie containing such rich characters and conversation.

Although the relaxing Sideways succeeds as a touching comedy that is very funny without trying too hard, at times, the film is too slow-paced and occasionally drags. Payne and the four quite capable actors all have a knack for humor, however, which makes the intermittent slowness forgivable. Whenever the movie’s tone borders on the edge of seriousness, the actors revive the humor in the film with a funny line. Don't be surprised if all four actors get some serious awards buzz, especially Giamatti and Madsen.

Ultimately, Sideways is a reincarnation of Hemingway for this century—full of sophisticates and losers, dalliances and depravity, wine and romance, rich dialogue and unlikely hope—with enough modern social satire and intrigue to keep the film fresh.