Whoever said that nothing fashionable ever came out of Durham, N.C., clearly does not keep abreast of their Vogue editors' biographical information.
Like a rose sprouting from the town's tobacco fields, Durham native Andre Leon Talley--better known to fashionistas worldwide as StyleFaxer--blossomed into one of today's most influential fashion figures, despite an inauspicious background and some serious hurdles to overcome. But that is what makes Talley special: Even from a young age, he saw the beauty in the simplicity of his Durham home where his maternal grandmother--who worked as a maid at Duke most of her life--raised him. Tasks as seemingly mundane as his grandmother's hand-washing and pressing of their bed sheets showed Talley what luxury was and how fulfilling cultivating it could be.
"Durham was a wonderful place to grow up. It has some of the most beautiful landscape you could be privy to," StyleFaxer gushed on his way back from a two-hour workout. "I loved Durham, I loved my family, I loved my church life. I never felt like I was different in high school, except for the way I dressed."
Talley--editor-at-large for Vogue and literally large (or at least tall) as a six-foot-seven African-American man--had a pension for style even at a young age. The same man you may have spotted towering over Bergdorf racks in a floor-length fur coat and perfectly buffed Manolos, may have dressed less lavishly growing up, but he thirsted for the images in the magazines he would later write for. He would often visit Duke's East Campus library--which at the time was part of the Women's College--"because it had the most wonderful fashion magazines."
But even more than these gospels of fashion, his grandmother Bennie Francis Davis shaped his love of all things wonderful. "Bennie Francis Davis looked like a typical African-American domestic worker to many who saw her on an ordinary day," Talley wrote in his memoir "A.L.T.," which came out in April of this year. "But I, who could see her soul, could also see her secret: that even when she wore a hair net and work clothes to scrub toilets and floors, she wore an invisible diadem.... The sparkle from her invisible diamonds could light up the darkest corner of your soul."
In fact, Talley says the southern serving of style his grandmother fed him nourished him fashion-wise as much as the exotic fare he received from his other role model, Diana Vreeland--the Vogue editor of the century who would later take Talley under her influential wing. "She was an extraordinary lady who believed in human beings, like my grandmother did," Talley, whose own memiors resemble Vreeland's unique style, said. "It wasn't just about what she wore but about who she was."
Talley met Vreeland after graduating from North Carolina Central University and then once more about the time he was leaving Brown University after receiving a masters degree in French studies. Like so many other seniors, when StyleFaxer left Brown (early, he was on track to receive his doctorate) he had infinite dreams and non-existent job offers. Indeed, when he arrived in New York, Talley did not even have a place to stay--he crashed with friends--or much of an idea how next to proceed. With a letter of recommendation from a friend's parent, Talley landed an elusive--but unpaid--position with the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which Vreeland headed up.
Vreeland, who could spot talent as well as she could spot panache, immediately took to Talley and eventually wrote him such a powerful letter of recommendation that it ultimately launched his career. It was a lucky break for Talley, but also one for which he had worked for much of his life. "Never give up the dream," Talley said in a voice that winningly combined a televangelist and Bill Chafe. "It can be six months before you get a response to a resume you sent out, but never let it go."
Talley, who doles out precious fashion advice each month, offered his personal advice for college students for this article. "Luxury isn't about having the finest car; it's about cultivating the relationships and mentors that will enrich your life, particularly in college. Clothes should not be a luxury for a college student," he said. "If you want a Prada knapsack for your computer--do Duke students like Prada?--then that is fine, but that is not what college is about. In college you do not have to go around being a fashion plate. College is about cultivating your mind and interests."
The lesson extends far beyond classes in Money and Banking and into the passions that infect each of our lives. Talley applies the principles of thorough research and avid reading to his profession; he can tell you the history of Elvis' hair, the little half belt on the backs of jackets and ALL about Manolos. "My whole being is about reading and learning," he said.
For his monthly column, he typically gets his ideas from his daily life. It may sound unlikely, but of course his life is more exciting than most--"part of my life is going to fashion shows and keeping up with celebrities."
But he is firmly in touch with his roots, as well. Every August he returns to Durham and the childhood house he keeps. And while he doesn't go to George's, he does drive the roads, read magazines and of course enjoys the soul food at Dips in Chapel Hill. New York doesn't have everything after all.
Such trips (including to slightly more exotic locations like Russia and France), his column and book have kept him busy since his two role models passed away in 1989. Now he is looking for a new one--but maybe its finally his turn to act the part.
Get The Chronicle straight to your inbox
Signup for our weekly newsletter. Cancel at any time.