Project Interchange Israel- Day 1

Today is my first full day in the state of Israel. I arrived yesterday after a 10 hour flight to Tel Aviv, where I am currently staying. Why am I in Israel over my lengthy Winter Break? I am a member of the Project Interchange journalism seminar, which is aimed at opening the eyes of university journalists to contemporary Israeli politics and its representation in the media. And even though I've only been here for less than 24 hours, the program has made significant headway towards that goal.

After arriving last night, our group of 17 students made our way to Maganda restauarant in Tel Aviv, where we were presented with plates after plates of Mediterranean dishes (the hummus from the Bryan Center and Whole Foods didn't compare) and baskets after baskets of the best pita bread I've ever had. Over dinner, our group heard from Professor Yossi Shain, head of the Political Science Department at Tel Aviv University and visiting professor at Georgetown. Using pictures of the restaurant owner's family displayed around the room to make his historical points about immigration into Israel, one of Professor Shain's largest arguments was Israeli's seeking normality in the face of abnormality. When I asked him to delve further into this, he explained that in light of war and conflict, Israelis only focus on how they can end the probem quickly, open back up their shops, and get on with their lives normally. With so many conflicts over Israel in the past half a century, such a mindset must be pretty useful.

Today, we talked with Professor Efram Imbar, Director of the Begin-Sadat Center for Strategic Studies at Bar Ilan University. Professor Imbar discussed Israel's relationship with its Middle Eastern neighbors, touching on the strategic importance of peace treaties with Egypt and Jordan, as well as issues such as the threat posed by Iran and renewed Turkish hegemonic ambition in the region. One of the most interesting aspects of his lecture was the image of President Barack Obama in the Middle East. The professor said that Obama is very astute and well-spoken, but that words are not enough; they will not change entrenched attitudes and interests in the Arab world. This led Obama to be seen as a "weakling who speaks but does not deliver." Along these lines, Professor Imbar did not have a very positive view of Bush's Iraq policy either, arguing that change must come from within, and America cannot impose democracy on the Middle East.

Of course, the whole week will not be spent receiving history lessons and different takes on policy solutions. After the meeting with Professor Imbar, we had a roundtable discussion with student activists and journalists at Tel Aviv University. One of the biggest things that struck me about the students was their evident maturity in manner and in speaking, as we discussed topics from the road to peace in Israel to the legitimacy of Michael Moore's documentaries. I quickly learned that this maturity was due to Israel's requirement of military service for all men and most women at the age of 18. It turns out that 54% of the nation serves in the military, which they are placed in after testing and evaluation during the last year of high school. One young man, who is originally from Australia, stated that his service molded his identity as an Israeli. Usually, he said, you are around people of similar backgrounds and socieconomic status. In the miltary, however, you become immersed within a very wide spectrum of people from Israel. A girl from the former Soviet Union, who served as a commander of 10 soldiers, said that being responsible for so many lives at the age of 18 changed her way of thinking and gave her a more realistic understanding of the world. After this military service, most students would take a vacation before going to university--the boy sitting next to me told me that he backpacked in South America for 7 months. Thus, many Israeli students enter university with a much different and more adult mindset than most, making our roundtable discussion that much more stimulating.

After lunch with students at the Tel Aviv University cafeteria, our group visited the Shanti House in Southern Tel Aviv, which is a shelter for at-risk Israeli teenagers. It is the only one of its kind, using a methodology developed by founder Mariuma Ben Yosef. Yosef implemented a system in which anyone between the age of 14 and 21 that needs a place to call home and has either ran away or been abandoned is welcome at the house. The only requirement is that the children are willing to get help. After a quick background check, the kids' files are thrown away, never to be looked at again. This is because Yosef believes in having them start with a clean slate, and moving on from the past. The children stay there for a week to many years, doing chores, going to school, and participating in theater, art, and literary workshops. Over 20,000 children have gone through the shelter, which takes in about 1,500 per year. I was surprised to find out that most kids found out about the house by word of mouth, since it is the most famous in Israel. Thanks to the Shanti House, kids that would have becom prostitutes or drug addicts become part of a family and are successfully assimilated into the military or work force of Israel.

I now find myself wondering how I've learned so much in less than 24 hours in Israel.With a meeting with international journalists later this evening, it looks like I'll be learning even more pretty soon. But I'm sure I'll find time to enjoy the warm waters of the Mediterranean, which is a block away from the hotel, sometime in between.