Golden Garden

Though art-deco bistros and swank Japanese steakhouses often get all the attention, Golden Garden quietly countervails sushi's unfortunate position as a high-status food. If the dish has one downside in America, it is that its delicate exoticism has to come at such a hefty price. At over $5.99 for a few chunks of the stuff, the average person-or anyone that has any sense-can't enjoy the dish with any regularity.

With its $25 all-you-can-consume sushi and beer buffet, Golden Garden lets you get your money's worth. For the price of four california rolls, customers can partake in as much and as many varieties of made-to-order sushi as they can stomach. While that may sound like a significant investment, consider the cost of any modest dinner and even a couple of beers (two of Golden Garden's 22 oz. Sapporo's can set you back eight bucks) and the value is evident. One taste of Golden Garden's product-immensely flavorful, cleanly presented and thoroughly delicious-and you might never eat sushi anywhere else.

A caution: Even though it is called a "buffet," Golden Garden's sushi is still a handmade delicacy, prepared as you order it. You also can't carry anything out. Thus, patrons should avoid taking advantage of the restaurant's generosity and order a modest amount to start-those little morsels fill you up in a hurry, especially with the free beer that comes with them.

Modestly slotted in a shopping center far down Guess Road, Golden Garden's exterior isn't likely to turn many heads. Its decor is plain-though clean, placid and pleasant. The service is personal and informative, and the sushi-not to mention the price-is supreme. For the less adventurous, the restaurant also offers cooked Chinese and Japanese favorites.

For the enjoyment of a true Japanese delicacy, Golden Garden is a genuine value and perhaps the best introduction to sushi possible. The restaurant doesn't score any points for being pretentious, but it won this writer's heart one bite at a time.

Golden Garden is located at 3808 Guess Road in Durham. For info, call (919)471-0608.