The pilgrims. The Mayflower. That story about peace with the Native Americans and pilgrims' pride. "Family" gatherings replete with drunken uncles and unresolved angst. Tepid conversations. Hidden anxieties. Agonizing stretches of time you'd just as soon forget.
It's Thanksgiving season again, and between the patriotic indoctrination and the bouts with your near genetic counterparts, the holiday can often be painful enough to make you wish the Niña, Pinta and Santa Maria had simply sunk. Thanksgiving can be a time of friendship, peace and reverence. It can also be just plain insufferable.
Some of the time-maybe most of it-all you've got to look forward to is the food. Few can sustain ill-will over a succulent feast, mounded high enough to obscure the clean white plate beneath. After all the dressing and pie and mountains of meat, all you can do is loosen your belt, sit by the fire (in colder climes anyway) and turn on the tube.
Still, even the food can be a bit of a disappointment at times, victim to predictable trough-style presentation and over-buttered homespun mediocrity. There's only so much turkey, dressing, cranberry sauce, yams, vegetable 2, vegetable 3, casserole 1, casserole 2, rolls and pie that one can take, after all. No wonder people pass out during the post-grub college football matchups.
Fortunately, several of the area's finest restaurants offer Thanksgiving ideas that lend the familiar feel of tradition a dash of zest and innovation. After all, if a feast aspires to bring people together for one afternoon each year, it at least ought to offer something that can't be had on the other 364.
Whether you're eating out, carrying out or even cribbing a little flair from the masters for your own recipes, Recess-with the help of some acclaimed chefs-has the answers. If you can forsake your grasp on the tired meat-and-potatoes mold of yesteryear, you just might stumble onto some ideas that can keep this holiday fresh through its third century.
Turkey-A Tradition Worth Keeping
"The only thing I keep from the classic dinner is the turkey," says Gennaro Villella, longtime executive chef of Il Palio, the Siena Hotel's award-winning restaurant. "Usually, turkey is just boring."
Hoping to baste the boredom out of the basic bird, Villella spices it up with extra virgin olive oil, rosemary, thyme and dashes of red pepper on the skin. His stuffing puts the traditional breadcrumb mishmash to shame: Villella opts for diced fennel, chicken liver and foccaccia.
Villella's cooking method is also a bit unusual. Because of what he calls "different structural muscles" in the bird's breast and legs, Villella cooks the parts seperately then reassembles the bird for serving. If that sounds too much like the effort involved in John Madden's Turkey Bowl "turducken" to you, Villella offers a simpler tactic-cook the bird very, very slowly.
Rather than try to mess with success, Magnolia Grill co-owner Karen Barker uses her culinary panache to bring traditional flavor to its peak. Using an adaptation of a basic roast chicken
"We always try to think of new things we can do, but we always come back to the original," she says, describing how her gourmet-centric family became obsessed with finding new twists every year. "Some years we've gotten really far out, and it just doesn't feel right. I like the repetitive nature of it."
While Barker will likely spend Thanksgiving Day with her family, Villella will be busy in the kitchen. Il Palio offers its customers a first-class feast, with a typical lunch seating serving 400 and dinner taking in another 200. In the past, Il Palio's spread has been so well-received that customers made a day of it, showing up for lunch and staying through the evening to gorge on the dinner as well.
Far Out-Thanksgiving Options That Keep It Interesting
Of all the groups most slighted by the traditional Thanksgiving, vegetarians have it the worst. Because of the reliance on turkey and vegetables that often involve meat drippings, vegetarians may find themselves stiffed rather than stuffed after their Thanksgiving feasts.
Fortunately, Wellspring Grocery comes through in the clutch, offering a complete vegan (basically, vegetarian without the dairy) spread that includes items like herb-crusted tofu and harvest stuffed squash. And while life without most of the basic food groups may sound dull to non-vegans, there is a bright side-they can at least enjoy Wellspring's variation on pumpkin pie. Vegetarians should hurry up if they want to get in on the action-Wellspring will be taking orders through this Sunday.
Though vegetarians may be guaranteed an unusual non-turkey dinner, carnivores can enjoy some much-needed variation in the rest of their menu. Born in Italy, Villello feels less bound to American culinary tradition. Instead, he says, he prefers to bring classic autumn dishes from his home country to complement the turkey. "I try to bring together many aromas and a nice beautiful color," he says, using autumn fruits such as cranberries, raspberries and pumpkins to give the meal its color. Among his favorite autumn offerings are pumpkin gnocchi with shaved ricotta cheese, pumpkin ravioli with a creamy hazelnut sauce and fresh mushrooms, and his to-die-for seared duck breast over greens with a raspberry balsamic vinaigrette. It's a far cry from a trough of vegetables mucked with cream of mushroom soup.
While George's Garage won't be offering any orange pastas on its all-you-can-eat Thanksgiving lunch buffet, the restaurant is aiming for the advantage in sheer mass. Along with the turkey and trimmings, George's is serving up prime rib and leg of lamb along with its trademark pumpkin and garlic soup (see sidebar for the recipe). Dinner brings the opportunity to order from both the seafood-centric regular menu and a number of Thanksgiving specials.
And although its food may not be particularly surprising, George's offers a unique way to end a day of gorging, capping things off with a Turkey Day DJ and an all-night dance party. If you eat at George's, you can at least dance some of your dinner away.
Taking Out, Eating In-Avoiding A Holiday Hassle
A crowded kitchen is often an unhappy one, and Thanksgivings seem particularly prone to domineering family do-gooders who get in the way of the cook's good sense. If the family wants to spend more time thanking and less time cooking, a number of local restaurants and markets offer to shoulder the work-or most of it-for it.
"It's a convenience thing," says Foster's Market chef Cindy Bankoski. "People want a gourmet dinner without spending all day in the kitchen."
And while the popular eatery's doors will be closed on Thanksgiving proper, Foster's still plans to rise to the occasion with a two-page menu of pre-paid carryout options. Among the several courses are pumpkin bread, a sumptuous-sounding butternut squash soup, unique green bean casserole and a crab and artichoke gratin appetizer. Foster's accepts individual pre-orders or entire-meal packages, so it's worth a look even for those planning to cook at home.
For the aspiring yet inexperienced home cook, the restaurant's turkey setup is hard to beat. For $3.99/lb., the market provides a seasoned, uncooked turkey with a pan and cooking instructions. It's not entirely foolproof, but it's easier than winging it from scratch. But if you want to go the Foster's route, you need to act fast-it stops taking orders Monday.
For the ultimate hassle-free holiday, George's Garage offers a set $50 meal that includes a whole turkey or ham, two vegetables and a choice of pie. Again, plan ahead-the place takes orders until 3pm Monday.
Not to be pigeonholed to mere vegan appeal, Wellspring also serves up traditional favorites like turkey, dressing, mashed potatoes, green beans and sweet potatoes. It's a la carte and by the pound, though, so customers should watch their wallets.
And Dessert...
"It's not Thanksgiving without the pie," says Barker. Though she usually makes two for her guests-sweet potato and pecan, many might argue that a Thanksgiving without pumpkin pie is like a Thanksgiving without turkey. Fortunately, a good one is simple to prepare, and every place we've mentioned will have plenty of it on hand.
But ultimately, despite the occasional bickering and the bad blood and the feel-good ideology of it all, this truly is one of our nation's least commercialized and most family-oriented holidays. Whether your Aunt Mary burns the turkey to a crisp, or wily old Uncle Kevin corners you with his drunken war stories, it's worth the effort to make the day a happy, simple one. There aren't presents to unwrap or stockings to stuff-only stomachs to fill.
"I think of Thanksgiving as a family reunion with good food and good wine," says Villella simply.
And although the food helps, it's the family that is the most important part.
Get The Chronicle straight to your inbox
Signup for our weekly newsletter. Cancel at any time.