One Duke senior is working to pay homage to Nigeria through fashion.
Ashan-wa Aliogo launched her clothing line LAJA in 2014, drawing inspiration from traditional African prints. The line uses Ankara, a type of printed African textile, in sophisticated and modern silhouettes. Her work became so popular that she launched her second collection over the summer.
“Looking back, it’s really exciting seeing how things have evolved,” she said.
Aliogo noted that sales volume of her line has tripled since she first began taking custom orders of her clothes, prompting her to begin producing them on a larger scale. This year, LAJA is stocked at Exotique, a fashion boutique in Durham, and the label has been featured in “Thisday,” a Nigerian national newspaper.
She said that she works to create sleek shirts, dresses and earrings with an emphasis on “keeping things simple” because she recognizes that prints can sometimes be overwhelming. She began her first collection by making mostly skirts, especially flared and peplum ones, which she considers the most flattering.
“I wouldn’t say LAJA is traditional [African fashion],” Aliogo said. “It pays homage to it, but also recognizes that fashion is always changing and evolving.”
Aliogo live in Nigeria for the first 15 years of her life. She explained she was concerned by the portrayal of Nigeria and the African continent in the media and created LAJA to shed light on the positive aspects of Africa.
Although Aliogo said that she is aware of cultural appropriation, she seeks to counter its influence by educating her customers about the history of African fashion.
“I want to promote the beauty, diversity and versatility of African prints, and that can take many forms,” Aliogo said.
Aliogo noted that she is optimistic that the platform she has built can be a tool for attracting attention to Nigeria.
“Seemingly superficial things like fashion really affect us on a very grand scale,” Aliogo said. “Fashion isn’t something you don’t think about. It’s part of your everyday life. There is politics in clothing.”
Through LAJA, Aliogo also wants to bolster the textiles industry in Nigeria, which is currently suffering due to international imports that are outcompeting goods manufactured domestically, she said. This necessitated working with Nigerian-based manufacturers while based in the U.S. last summer.
Senior Bria Brown said that she likes how Aliogo’s line involves bright colors and praised her dedication to her business.
“She’s really been very driven ever since I met her, and I think that’s one of the key things that has pushed LAJA to where it is now,” Brown said. “She’s just been really intentional in putting herself out there, which is what I really admire about her. Even though I’m older than her, I want to be like her when I grow up.”
Aliogo has been able to succeed because she seizes every opportunity she has, said senior D’Nita Albritton, who has purchased some of Aliogo’s designs.
Albritton noted that the clothes in the collection are very versatile.
“I think all the pieces are lovely,” she said. “I like how there’s something for everyone in there. There’s the most basic and neutral of colors, all the way to the most vibrant.”
Aliogo explained that she gets some of her business acumen from her father, who is a businessman, and her mother, who designs jewelry.
As for the rest, she said, “I learn by experience, by attempting and by trying.”
An international comparative studies and French studies double major, Aliogo will graduate this Spring and intends to continue running LAJA after graduation.
“I want to make this bigger than myself,” she said.
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