Margaret's Mexican

Margaret's Cantina, nestled in Chapel Hill's Timberlyne Shopping Center, is a refreshing change of pace from Duke's staple of Cosmic Cantina burritos. Open since 1996, Margaret's Cantina offers a healthy and refreshing interpretation of Tex-Mex cuisine--and it's certainly among the best such restaurants in the Triangle. Emphasizing local ingredients, the fresh dishes made to order are this cantina's claim to fame, and it lives up to its quality billing.

The key word is "fresh." The starters? Salsa simply bursting with tomatoes, onions and cilantro; chunky guacamole (not like the ever-popular Dillo's pureed form); tortilla chips that are crispy, but not oily. Try the Mexican sampler, which pairs tortilla chips with salsa, guacamole and bean dip. The sweet potato chips show the cantina's versatility of using local ingredients, and when they're served with a homemade chile mayo, the combination is spicy, sweet and earthy. Skip the hummus, though--it's not bad, but you're there for Mexican, not Middle Eastern. The chicken chowder is filling, and at $3.25 a bowl, it's a steal. Think arroz con pollo, but a little more soupy than you're probably used to. I tried only one of the five salads they offer--the Southwestern caesar. Margaret's version of dressing, which uses lime juice, cilantro and ancho chiles, cuts through the romaine and romano cheese, making for a fiesta in your mouth.

The entrees get a bit pricey, ranging from $5.95 for a one-taco dinner to $16.95 for a fajita platter. Margaret's Cantina offers the requisite tacos, burritos, enchiladas and quesadillas, all of which are very good--and very big. The best versions of these are those with seafood--grilled shrimp and grilled tempeh. It's a welcome alternative to the shredded steak and chicken that other comparable eateries offer. The highlights of the menu are Margaret's specialties. The rotisserie chicken literally melts in the mouth, with four versions available--I recommend the Southwestern version, served with spicy grits. The Caribbean-Catfish blends both Southwestern and Caribbean jerk flavors, and with its mango-banana salsa, it's a dish that's worth the drive alone. For desserts, try the flan. It's as good as any version you'll find in the Triangle.

Ninth Street burrito lovers, take notice: Margaret's rivals our own Cosmic in the battle of the best cantina, and it offers a textbook lesson on how to blend local Southern ingredients with Southwestern flair.