The mural jumps out from the side of the building as you drive along Chapel Hill Street toward downtown. The large, brightly colored painting depicting a diverse food-sharing community seems somehow out of place among the convenience stores, community centers and vacant storefronts with which it shares a block.
Yet for 30 years, Grocery Manager Michael Pocinki said, the Durham Co-op Grocery has managed to survive as "the best-kept secret in [town]."
In those 30 years, the Co-op--now a retail store owned and operated by more than 400 members--has evolved considerably. Originally a buying club started by 50 Duke students in 1971, the organization was born in the basement of the Chapel as "The People's Intergalactic Food Conspiracy." Eventually the Co-op grew to serve the larger Durham community, and the name was changed, Pocinki said, to "cater to the neighborhood."
Still, a change in name has not meant a departure from the organization's founding values. Over time, members have abided by the same cooperative principles, said Manager Ted Perry, "the whole idea of providing food and education and putting back into the community."
However, that community has not always been receptive to the Co-op's efforts. When the store relocated several years ago from Broad Street to its current location, hopes of reaching out to the local population were met with the disappointing reality of general indifference.
"They were lofty ideals. It wasn't realistic," Pocinki said.
Pocinki explained that the store's customer base before the move was mostly white and affluent, so the poorer residents of the new neighborhood, many of whom were minorities, were reluctant to shop at it. Meanwhile, he said, the existing customers were somewhat unhappy at the prospect of having to visit a low-income neighborhood to buy their groceries.
Despite the challenges the Co-op has faced through the years--from racial tension to the engulfment of the organic food market by pre-packaged corporate food products--members say the Co-op remains a close-knit community of dedicated individuals. They rave about the reduced prices they get in exchange for scant membership dues. Some also volunteer to work at the Co-op several hours per week as "sustainers" to receive even greater discounts.
Everything from fresh, local organic produce to beer brewing equipment can be purchased or special-ordered through the Co-op. Although the Co-op's board of directors voted to ban the sale of meat and alcohol, two normally large revenue draws for a grocery store, Pocinki said sales are still up.
Customers seem to be content with the unique experience of Co-op shopping.
While sometimes "there are fewer options because it's unpredictable what might be in stock," sophomore Chris Paul explained, "it's a very different experience shopping there. I can ask questions and get ideas if I'm confusedâ_| They're really helpful."
Karina Schafer, a research associate at the Nicholas School of the Environment and Earth Sciences and a volunteer at the Co-op, said she enjoys "the nice working atmosphere." She shops there not only because of "the really considerable discount," but also to lend support to local organic farmers.
Members like Schafer and Sven Rinke, a graduate student in Physics, cited this community atmosphere as central to the success of the Co-op. "During my time at the Co-op I have met numerous individuals with similar values, and I have become friends with politically, socially and environmentally active people," Rinke said. "I have met local farmers, participated in outreach programs promoting local produce, and I feel good about being actively involved in the community.
"At times," he added, "the Co-op feels more [like] a social meeting place than a grocery store." On any given day, a workshop on acupuncture, herbs or juicing might be taking place at the front of the store.
Paul, who shops at the Co-op at least once a week, is also the president of Plan V, a student organization that tries to increase vegetarian dining options on-campus. The group organizes weekly vegetarian meals for members and does all of its shopping at the Durham Co-op through a voucher account. "We really subscribe to [the Co-op's] vision," Paul said. "It's an example of one of the exciting, innovative things that people are doing to improve relations in the community."
Ultimately, Paul added, the Co-op represents a "historical connection" between the founders of The People's Intergalactic Food Conspiracy and a segment of today's student population at Duke. "We have the same commitment to community, local agriculture and vegetarian food," he said. "We work hard to support local farmers and environmentally sound choices."
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