Marvelous Mexican

Fortunately, the restaurant I planned to review this week was closed on Sunday. In a quandary, my friend suggested a Mexican restaurant that he swore had the best Mexican food in the Triangle. I trusted him because he's from Texas.

And I'm glad I did.

El Chilango may be a bit out of the way--it's located in Carrboro off Jones Ferry Road--but it's a worthwhile and inexpensive beginning to a night out in Chapel Hill.

Unassumingly located next to a laudromat and The Pantry, El Chilango doesn't score on the exterior. Inside, food is served buffet style, which, again, didn't quite sell me on its being the best Mexican food in the Triangle, but I was pleasantly surprised.

El Chilango's food is a welcome spice infusion compared to the blander fare offered in Durham at El Rodeo and Torrero's.

Food on the buffet sells at a very reasonable $5.49 a pound, which means you can sample a wide variety of dishes for around seven or eight bucks. Desserts are $2.25 a piece.

The buffet is arranged in three sections--taco bar with chile sauces, vegetarian entrees and meat entrees.

I began my meal with a bowl of their beef soup. One of my favorite dishes, it's combined spiced stew meat with beef broth and vegetables.

From the vegetarian section, I sampled the stuffed green peppers, black bean salad and refried bean taco. While the stuffing in the green pepper seemed runny, it was a favorite among many customers. The black bean salad was okay, but it was the only bland dish among all the ones I tried.

Next, I moved onto the meat section--by far the best fare in the restaurant. The chicken enchilada effectively combined spiced, shredded chicken with a cheese topping.

Individually, El Chilango offers at least two types of each meat--chicken, beef and pork. Both the beef and chicken fajita meats were good, and the steak meat wasn't tough like it often is in fajita dishes. The mild pork cubes were well-spiced but a little dry. But the best meat was the chicken steak--pieces of all white chicken in a mild sauce with bell peppers and onions.

El Chilango is more than just a place to eat. On Saturdays, Triangle Tangueros offers beginners' Latin dance lessons at El Chilango for $5. And every Tuesday and Sunday, El Chilango offers Spanish lessons. So come for the food, and come back for the learning experience. You won't be sorry.

El Chilango is located at 506 Jones Ferry Road in Carrboro. Call 919.960.0171 for more information.

GRADE: B+

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