2008 Woodie Awards
Have a seat at the Chef's Table
By: Bryan Zupon
Issue date: 10/18/07 Section: Recess
Last update: 10/18/07 at 6:55 AM EST
Last update: 10/18/07 at 6:55 AM EST
- Page 1 of 1
Duke students passionate about food already know that the Triangle is ripe with distinctive dining experiences. From authentic tacos to spicy Korean tofu soups to smoky pulled pork, there is an abundance of good eating just waiting to be discovered.
Few, however, would argue against the belief that lengthy tasting menus lie staunchly in the domain of fine-dining restaurants in New York, Chicago or San Francisco. Until recently, this assumption would have been largely correct, but dinner at Jujube's chef's table is changing all of this. Executive Chef Charlie Deal and Chef de Cuisine Josh DeCarolis craft 20-course meals of globally-inspired, Asian-inflected cuisine every Tuesday night for a maximum of six diners.
Each week's chef's dinner begins promptly at 7 p.m., and the procession of food that follows for the next two-and-a-half hours is impressive. This is the most exciting meal to be had in the Triangle, bar none. AAA Diamonds, top 50 rankings from Gourmet and contrived attempts at underground dining clubs all have their place, but adventurous diners must find a way to make it to Jujube for one of Chef Deal's culinary extravaganzas.
Seated neatly in a row immediately in front of an open kitchen that dominates one side of the restaurant, diners are presented with a simple paper menu and supplemental beverage list. Introductions are made-conversation with other diners and the kitchen staff becomes unavoidable over the course of such an engaging meal-and the eating commences with gusto.
On this evening, diners begin with "Chips and Dip," a creative array of three types of Asian chips-lotus root, sesame cracker and shrimp cracker-and three accompanying dips. Pears, olives and flat beans all make appearances to palate-pleasing effect. The whimsy continues with the next course, a spoonful of gelatinized Japanese fish broth, cucumber and apple pop rocks. A seemingly bizarre combination that is at once salty, sweet and refreshingly fizzy. Chef de Cuisine DeCarolis' Italian heritage and classical French training come through in dishes like salt cod topped with a sauce of white wine, herbs and tomato and stuffed pig's trotter with braised beet greens. These are dishes perfect for early autumn. Luxury ingredients are duly represented in a foie gras-stuffed Thai eggplant and a quail egg and spinach dumpling with shaved truffles. And to break up the potential for monotony of course after course of gluttony, fun, bite-sized courses-a miniature pork and cabbage soup dumpling and a pork belly stuffed rice fritter, to name just two-are sprinkled throughout.
After 17 savory courses, three small desserts, two glasses of wine and a cocktail, any diner is bound to feel overwhelmed. Gustatory excess aside this is a dining experience unlike any other in North Carolina and a great value at that.
Few, however, would argue against the belief that lengthy tasting menus lie staunchly in the domain of fine-dining restaurants in New York, Chicago or San Francisco. Until recently, this assumption would have been largely correct, but dinner at Jujube's chef's table is changing all of this. Executive Chef Charlie Deal and Chef de Cuisine Josh DeCarolis craft 20-course meals of globally-inspired, Asian-inflected cuisine every Tuesday night for a maximum of six diners.
Each week's chef's dinner begins promptly at 7 p.m., and the procession of food that follows for the next two-and-a-half hours is impressive. This is the most exciting meal to be had in the Triangle, bar none. AAA Diamonds, top 50 rankings from Gourmet and contrived attempts at underground dining clubs all have their place, but adventurous diners must find a way to make it to Jujube for one of Chef Deal's culinary extravaganzas.
Seated neatly in a row immediately in front of an open kitchen that dominates one side of the restaurant, diners are presented with a simple paper menu and supplemental beverage list. Introductions are made-conversation with other diners and the kitchen staff becomes unavoidable over the course of such an engaging meal-and the eating commences with gusto.
On this evening, diners begin with "Chips and Dip," a creative array of three types of Asian chips-lotus root, sesame cracker and shrimp cracker-and three accompanying dips. Pears, olives and flat beans all make appearances to palate-pleasing effect. The whimsy continues with the next course, a spoonful of gelatinized Japanese fish broth, cucumber and apple pop rocks. A seemingly bizarre combination that is at once salty, sweet and refreshingly fizzy. Chef de Cuisine DeCarolis' Italian heritage and classical French training come through in dishes like salt cod topped with a sauce of white wine, herbs and tomato and stuffed pig's trotter with braised beet greens. These are dishes perfect for early autumn. Luxury ingredients are duly represented in a foie gras-stuffed Thai eggplant and a quail egg and spinach dumpling with shaved truffles. And to break up the potential for monotony of course after course of gluttony, fun, bite-sized courses-a miniature pork and cabbage soup dumpling and a pork belly stuffed rice fritter, to name just two-are sprinkled throughout.
After 17 savory courses, three small desserts, two glasses of wine and a cocktail, any diner is bound to feel overwhelmed. Gustatory excess aside this is a dining experience unlike any other in North Carolina and a great value at that.
Viewing Comments 1 - 2 of 2
michael schmitt
posted 10/19/07 @ 11:30 PM EST
Bryan,
You mention that it's a value. How much does this gustatory delight cost? Another note, have you checked out Restaurant StarLu's Chef's table. (Continued…)
tengoeste
michael schmitt
posted 10/19/07 @ 11:34 PM EST
Bryan,
You mention that it's a value. How much does this gustatory delight cost? Another note, have you checked out Restaurant StarLu's Chef's table. (Continued…)
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